Waterside, under the raspberry bush

Chausseestraße 8 – the question is: ground floor or second floor? There’s a classy wine bar downstairs with a few tables – but on this evening there’s only room at the bar. So: second floor. Simple but elegant decor. As you enter, Marco Müller (chef & cook) greets the guests from the kitchen. This does not give you any idea of what the evening will bring.

This only becomes apparent when you look at the menu. “By the water” (chives & wood sorrel, cheese broth) or “Under the raspberry bush” (beet, pumpkin & earth). Pure gastronomic experience. But not with singing waiters. The experience develops on the palate: “Wild Baltic salmon” (honeybeet & fennel, pepper dust) and “Kolrabi & shoulder” (sour-salty, fire & whey). If you order this combination, you will already have four experiences (not including the various greetings from the kitchen).

If you order six experiences, you can also add “onion vegetables” (egg yolk & ox marrow, caramel) and “pigeon & elderberry capers” (wild broccoli, black garlic). If you order eight, a “Tomato Stulle” (cold rye & crispbread, goat’s feta gratiné) and “Sunflower root & blackcurrant” will unleash a true explosion of experiences on your palate.

Well, and if you’re already there – you can also cope with ten experiences (as long as your wallet plays along – the quantities of the courses are adapted accordingly so that there is never, but never, anything like a feeling of fullness). With “crayfish” (raw marinated & poached, dulse algae, salted lemon) and “cauliflower” (lardo & sorrel), the experience is complete.

Who cares that Wolf Biermann once lived diagonally opposite?

jak – 2016